When most people think of the mountains in Poland, their minds go to the Tatra mountains in the South, with the popular resort town of Zakopane. But there is another mountain range in Poland worth exploring. The Owl Mountains (Góry Sowie in Polish), tucked in the Southwest corner of Poland, offer a perfect escape for nature lovers, outdoor enthusiasts and WWII history buffs. The name comes from the many owl species that call this area home. This picturesque range, part of the Central Sudetes located along the Czech border, provides visitors with breathtaking landscapes, fascinating history, unique sights, and a variety of activities for all seasons. You can visit a gorgeous timber church, wander a medieval castle, explore underground Nazi tunnels, and climb an observation tower on top of a mountain peak all within the area. There is so much to see and do in this lesser known part of the country.
Logistics - How to get there and where to stay
First things first. How to get to the area and where to stay. If you want to stay in a larger center, your best bet would be Wrocław. It is about an hour and a half away and is an amazing place to visit on its own. You will find plenty of accommodation options there as well as restaurants, museums, shops and entertainment. You will want to stay a day or two in Wroclaw before you venture out to do day trips.
If you want to be in the area for longer than just a day trip or two from Wroclaw, there are a few good spots. Świdnica is a city of 55,000 people. This charming town is delightful to spend some time and you will find all the amenities you need. All the sights on this list are under 45 minutes from Swidnica by car, with one being located right in the city!
Głuszyca is a town of about 6500 residents. You will find some restaurants, along with guesthouses and apartment rentals. The small town of Walim, with a population of around 2000 offers a few restaurants and guesthouses as well. The Riese Complex website also has some great suggestions for accommodations in the area. You could also stay in the outbuildings of Książ Castle, which I will talk about later on.
The easiest way to get to the area is to rent a car and drive. You can get to Gluszyca from Wroclaw on public transportation but once there, buses to the sights you will want to explore are limited. Don't be intimidated by driving in Poland. It is very easy as the roads are well maintained. Another option for getting around is to hire a private driver or join an organized tour. There are many tours to choose from, most leaving and returning from Wroclaw.
Things to see and do in the Owl Mountains
Riese Complex
Let's start with what is probably the most well known attraction in the area. This is the Nazi complex known in German as "Projekt Riese". The Riese Complex or Project Giant, was a large construction project undertaken by Nazi Germany during World War II. This area of Lower Silesia was part of Germany at the time. The exact purpose of the project remains somewhat mysterious and debated by historians. Theories include an underground production facilities for secret weapons, headquarters for Adolf Hitler, a research and development center or a shelter for high-ranking Nazi officials.
The project was massive in scope, consisting of seven main underground complexes spread across several locations in the mountains. It includes a network of underground tunnel systems, chambers, and halls. Some sections were reinforced with concrete. The total estimated area of the underground structures is around 200,000 square meters.The known sites include Włodarz, Osówka, Rzeczka, Jugowice, Sokolec, Soboń, and Książ Castle. Work began around 1943 and continued until the end of the war in 1945. It was never finished, however, due to the advancing Soviet forces in 1945. Many sections were left in various states of completion. The project utilized forced labor, primarily from concentration camps. Thousands of prisoners were worked to death under brutal conditions.
After the war, the area became part of Poland. The complex was initially sealed off and explored by Polish and Soviet military forces. In recent decades, some parts have been opened for tourism. Historians and archaeologists continue to study the site to uncover more information about its purpose and extent. New tunnels and chambers are occasionally discovered. The complex serves as a grim reminder of the Nazi regime's ambitions and the suffering inflicted on forced laborers. It's also an example of the large-scale secret projects undertaken during World War II.
Three main sites associated with Project Riese are open to the public, each offering a different perspective on the complex. Osówka is often considered the most developed for tourism, featuring guided tours through concrete-reinforced tunnels and chambers. A museum displays artifacts and provides historical context. Włodarz offers more adventurous exploration, including an optional boat tour through flooded tunnels. Rzeczka/Walim is smaller complex. Guided tours explain the construction process and the harsh conditions faced by forced laborers. Around the sites there are remnants of the construction and life in the complex. You can see construction materials, ammunition, military vehicles, bunkers and barracks, many of which are partly destroyed. The whole area is eerie and somber.
Make sure to wear sturdy shoes and warm clothing, as the underground temperature hovers around 5°C (41°F) year-round and can be damp. Some of the sights only take cash so make sure to have some on hand. The tours typically last around an hour per site and will be in Polish but some of the tours have audio guides in English. If there is no audio guide, it is still well worth going on the tour to see the area.
Książ Castle
While not an underground complex, this nearby castle was connected to Project Riese and offers a glimpse into the above-ground aspects of Nazi occupation in the region. The first fortification was built on this site in the thirteenth century by the Bohemian forces. Through the centuries it changed hands multiple times. The castle we see now was built in the 16th century in the Renaissance style. Later Baroque and Neo-Renaissance elements were also added. It is the largest castle in the area and the third largest in all of Poland. During WWII the castle was seized by the Nazi regime and housed a para military group. What is termed "the third castle reconstruction" began at this time as the castle was supposed to become the home and headquarters for Hitler. Tunnels beneath the castle were dug, though historians are not quite sure what they were to be used for. You can visit both the castle and the underground tunnels. English audio guides are available. There is also a hotel located in some of the outbuildings of the castle.
About a 30 minute walk from the castle through the woods will bring you to Stary Książ Castle. This is the remnants of a 13 century castle. In the 18th century, the existing ruins were rebuilt to look like a romantic castle. The structure was then burned down by the Red Army after WWII.
Outdoor activities
With over 150 kilometers of marked trails, the Owl Mountains are a hiker's paradise. Trails range from easy walks suitable for families to more challenging routes for experienced trekkers. The red trail leading to the summit of Wielka Sowa (the highest peak in the area) is particularly popular, rewarding hikers with stunning vistas. There is a 25 meter lookout tower at the summit that was built in 1906. On a clear day you can see all the way to Wroclaw. Mountain biking enthusiasts will find plenty of exciting routes, including both forest paths and more technical trails. Many local accommodations offer bike rentals and route maps. When snow blankets the mountains, the area transforms into a winter wonderland. Cross-country skiing is popular on the gentler slopes, while downhill skiing and snowboarding are available at small resorts like Wielka Sowa and Gornik.
Grodno Castle
This early 13th-century fortress near Zagórze Śląskie offers medieval exhibitions and panoramic views of the Bystrzyca Valley. According to legend, there has been a watchtower here since 800 AD. You can climb the tower to admire the gorgeous views from the observation deck or visit the torture chamber below the castle. Every May, a medieval festival is held here. There is an English audio guide when visiting the castle.
Fort Srebrna Góra
Built in 1765 when the area was part of the Kingdom of Prussia, Fort Srebrna Góra is a former military fort. It is now a museum and one of Poland's official Historical Monuments. It is a rare example of an 18th-century mountain stronghold and is the largest mountain fort in Europe. It is sometimes referred to as the "Gibraltar of Prussia" or the "Fortress in the Clouds". Spanning three hills, it could house 4000 soldiers. It was never captured and once resisted the Napoleon army. During WWII it was used as a prisoner of war camp. There are guided tours with a "Prussian soldier" as your guide. You will learn about life as a soldier in the fort, their uniforms, artillery, food etc.
The town of Srebrna Gora is a charming town housed in a picturesque valley. It is worth taking time to explore its cute streets and alleyways. It began as a mining settlement in the 14th century. A tannery, a spinning mill and a metal factory helped the town thrive. The finest pocket watches in Prussia were made here. There are restaurants, cafes and accommodations available in the town.
Gross Rosen Nazi concentration camp
Established in 1940, Gross Rosen was a German Nazi concentration labor camp known for its deadly work conditions. It became the center for a system of almost 100 subcamps. The mainly Jewish and Soviet prisoners of war were made to work in a large stone quarry or in the construction of SS projects in the area. Gross Rosen was known for its brutal treatment of the prisoners with many dying in the quarry. The average survival time in 1942 was two months. After 1942, the survival time increased as the Nazis realized they needed the labor. There was a crematorium on site to dispose of the bodies of those that perished. It is estimated that 120,000 prisoners passed through the Gross Rosen network with around 40,000 dying.
Visiting the camp and museum will take about two hours. There are guided tours as well as audio-guides or you can wander on your own. Admission is free. Children under 13 are not allowed.
Church of Peace in Świdnica
The Holy Trinity Church of Peace in Swidnica is part of a pair of churches, the other being 40 minutes to the northwest in Jawor. They were named after the Peace Treaty of Westphalia in 1648 which ended the 13-years war and brought peace to the Holy Roman Empire. The treaty granted the Lutherans in the area the permission to build 3 churches but there were many restrictions put on the construction. The churches had to be made of perishable materials such as wood and straw, They could not look like churches and had to be built without steeples or church bells. They also had to be located outside the city walls and the construction also had to be completed within a year. The third church built at the time burned down in the 1700s. The two remaining churches are now listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. They are the largest timber frame churches in all of Europe.
The Holy Trinity church of Peace looks austere from the outside but is ornately decorated in the Baroque style on the inside. Although the alter piece looks to be made of marble, it is actually made of wood. The church can hold over 7,000 people. Services have been held here continuously since 1657. There are tours offered if you are interested in more information than is given on the brochure you receive when buying a ticket. A tour of just the church takes about 40 minutes. A tour of Peace Square which includes the church and surrounding buildings the bell tower and other 17th and 18th century monuments, takes about 1.5 hours.
The Owl Mountains of Poland and surrounding area offer a perfect blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and cultural experiences. It is an area that is often overlooked but should definitely make it on your list. With a stunning church, fascinating WWII sites, breathtaking scenery and intriguing castles, this area is a must see.
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